Hanal Pixán

More Altars from the Plaza Grande on Saturday afternoon.

Día de los Muertos

We went to La Ermita last night to look at the altars presented on the first night of this celebration. On October 30, 31, and November 1st and 2nd, the Mexican people celebrate their loved ones who have passed. Día de los Muertos is know as Hanal Pixán here in the Yucatán.

This group of kids were getting ready for a procession from the cemetery to La Ermita. They saw our camera and created a fantastic photo opportunity.





This group of ladies insisted that we take a photo. They were having such a good time. Note the traditional dress.

Yucatán

I ran across this video on Yucatan Living the other day. I thought it does a good job of showing my friends where we live and why we like it here. Click on the link and enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N9kHAHQwJU

DHL

We have been working on getting our studio finished lately. Our architect has designed, and had built several pieces of furniture, we found Aeron Chairs locally, and purchased some "puppies" (low rolling file cabinets) to keep our stuff in. Everything looked great, except the table we were using for our desk—it was a horrible thing that we found at a neighborhood office furniture store for very few pesos a while back. What we needed was our rolling stainless steel desk from our studio in San Antonio! Our collection of Eames walnut stools have followed us everywhere—so why not let them follow us here too?

After a lot of discussion about losing our stuff en route or it arriving in pieces, we decided to have them all packed and shipped to us. I called the PakMail location in San Antonio—we have used PakMail before in Santa Fe and liked their professionalism and their knowledge of shipping methods. Michelle told us that DHL was the best option for shipping to Mexico. They picked up all the items, built a shipping box for the table and packed the stools, each in its own box. DHL picked up the items on Friday in San Antionio, they went through customs in Mexico City on Tuesday and arrived in Merida on Thursday morning. They were delivered to our home on Friday. We paid for packing, shipping and import tax to get the items here. All arrived in perfect condition. We are very pleased!

Claude

Someday Claude will figure out how to catch the iguana. The iguana shows up on the wall every morning—Claude usually ends up in the pool.

Spectacular Sunset

Up on the roof last evening. Beautiful—then it was gone!

Gritos

Mexican Independence Day(September 16), in Mérida, starts with gritos - shouts of ¡Viva Mexico!, ¡Viva Yucatan! and ¡Viva Merida! at 11pm the night before. We went to the Zocalo for the big party. There were thousands of people in a very well-behaved crowd and lots of live music. The gritos at 11pm were let by Ivonne Ortega Pacheco, the Governess of Yucatan and were followed by the best fireworks display ever. At midnight Pedro Fernandez played on the main stage. It was a great evening!

Noche Mexicana

Every Saturday night is Noche Mexicana in a park near our house. There is a lot of good food, live entertainment and local crafts for sale. Last night was especially crowded and the entertainment was fun. Take a look.

Dieciséis

Mérida is getting ready for a big party. Mexican Independence day is September 16. Things have been happening around town for several weeks in preparation for the big event. Festive banners on the buildings on the main plaza, colorful lights over the main streets in Centro and large decorations around town symbolize different aspects of Mexican independence from Spain in 1810. Next year is the bicentennial, and is already being counted down by an electronic clock on one of the glorietas on Montejo. Many of the local businesses and homes are being decorated in red, white and green banners, flags and festive items. We have never been in Mexico for Independence Day - but are told by our local friends that it is a big party that starts shortly before midnight on September 15 with gritos and fireworks.

Stay tuned!

Office

Had some new work done recently in our home/studio—floating wall shelves and a credenza. We're really pleased with the outcome.

Traveling

Yes, we're still alive! Have been doing some traveling. Todo bien.

Life

Been awhile since the last post. Just been enjoying life on this great Peninsula.

Ivonne

Last night was a blast! The evening was so full of Yucatan culture, we had no idea what we were in for. The Plaza Grande was packed with people, many in traditional Yucateco dress - women in huipiles, men in white pants, guayabera shirts, sandals and panama hats. There were several stages around the plaza with bands and a large main stage where the Governess would arrive after her speech in the Teatro José Peón Contreras, which is a block and a half from the Plaza Grande. The speech was broadcast on big screens in the plaza as well as on speakers. After her speech, she walked from the teatro to the stage on the plaza where she was greeted by music, dance and fireworks. Many speeches in Spanish and Maya were given while waiting for her to arrive. This is the first time I have heard Maya spoken more than just in passing - it is a very interesting language. Ivonne danced with dignitaries on stage to loud Yucateco music. Meanwhile the colorfully dressed people - thousands of them - danced in the streets while fireworks blasted all evening. The Governess eventually made her way all the way around the plaza, meeting the people who lover her, dancing, kissing, hugging and laughing. It really was a sight to see and we were glad we came down for it. We always feel safe and welcome at local events. It is refreshing - the fiestas are free, family-oriented, safe, fun and don't have a Budweiser booth every ten feet - in fact alcohol is not even offered.

Here is Ivonne as she works her way through the crowd. She is wearing the green sash. Click on the first photo and notice the adoring look on the lady's face in front of the Governess.

Saturday

This morning we headed out with the intention of going to the Feria Artesanal Municipal Tunich 2009. A fair of handicrafts held in Dzityá, on the north side of Mérida. We never made it because the free bus never left the stop at Santa Lucia park. Maybe tomorrow - I am learning a lot about patience in Mexico.

Since we were downtown, we decided to stroll around the plaza. It has been a while since we have been to the Plaza Grande on a Saturday during the day. There was a lot going on today. The streets are decorated with multicolored flags and the vendors were out in full force. There are multiple stages being set up on the plaza for music and dancing in the evening. Tomorrow is the anniversary of the Governess. There will be events all afternoon and into the evening to celebrate the successes of the Governess of Yucatán - Ivonne Ortega Pacheco. She seems to be very popular here and is a dynamic person. Tonight, she will talk on the plaza about her successes in the last two years of her term. We will be going downtown this evening to see what is going on. Yucatecos know how to throw a party, so it should be fun.

Here are a few photos from our walk through the plaza.

Lilies

We have a water garden in the front courtyard of the house. I enjoy learning about water gardening, but have a long way to go. The garden has several varieties of water lilies, grasses and an orchid. The lilies are blooming now. The flowers are open most of the day from early morning until late afternoon. Someday, I hope to be able to identify the type of lilies. We have mollies and swordtails in the water to keep the mosquito larvae at bay. A pleco cleans up the algae. The plants, fish and water create a nice balance - we don't have to feed the fish.

Check out Jonna's pond at: blah...blah...blah... Ginger! A great inspiration to me and my water gardening.

Iguanas

We have a new hatching of iguanas in the yard next door. So, we are finding them everywhere in our yard. The baby iguanas are about 6 inches long and bright green. They are fast. The dogs have a new sport of watching for them and then chasing them all around the yard. Great entertainment! I haven't mustered up the courage to pick one up yet - that is Gabriel in the photo holding the baby.

The iguanas have gotten used to us being around now. We see them on the wall between our yard and theirs, and in the tree next door caching some rays during the day (check out the photo - he is about 2 feet long). They are docile and interesting to watch.

Ramón

We had to remove a ramón tree in the yard. The tree was over the back of the house and pool. This tree was a constant pollen factory with leaves, and pollen balls everywhere, and the trunk was rotting on one side. The pool was always cloudy from the pollen - an not to mention the effect on our allergies. I hated to cut down a tree, but we just couldn't live with it any longer.

We contacted our Jardinero to have it removed. He showed up on Friday morning with six men and the tree was chopped up into little pieces and carried out the front door to a truck on the street. The truck was comical - front half an old US mail truck and the back half a flat bed. The leaves of the ramón are a good animal food - so the branches went to a farm somewhere for cattle or lamb food. The guys did a tidy job. Came back the next day and removed most of the roots.

Ramón gone!

Milkman

As a kid in the 60's in the US, we had milk delivered to our house several times a week. You put the empty glass bottles on the porch the night before delivery and early in the morning the new bottles of milk, and any other dairy products ordered, were on the porch. Of course, this service is mostly no longer available in the US.

In our neighborhood, we have a Milkman. This is what the delivery vehicle looks like - a white motorcycle and trailer. How do you know when he is coming? Listen for the moo!

Market

We went to Mercado Lucas de Gálvez recently. This is the big market in Centro and a short walk from our house. It is very large and you can find just about anything you are looking for.

Here are some candid photos I took while we were shopping.

In this area, housewares.

Coca-Cola is king in Mérida. Coke in a glass bottle during a hot afternoon is the best.

Chaya

Our friend gave a nice bag of chaya yesterday. We have heard of it among the locals and were anxious to try it.

Here is what I found out about it - Chaya is also known as Tree Spinach and is a large, fast growing leafy perennial shrub that is native to the Yucatán. It is cooked and eaten like spinach. Raw chaya leaves are toxic and contain a glucoside that can release toxic cyanide. Interesting! Chaya is easy to grow, very hardy and suffers very little from insects - so pesticides are not used on it much. Chaya is one of the most productive green veggies. It is a good source of protein, vitamins, calcium and iron and a rich source of antioxidants. Cooking inactivates the toxic components. When cooked this green is a great source of lots of good things.

Here is how Lynn cooked it - wash thoroughly and remove the stems from the chaya, stack the leaves and slice into half inch ribbons, (watch out for the sap and small fibers, they can irritate your skin), in an non-aluminum pan sauté 1/2 of a red onion, diced in a heaping teaspoon of olive oil, add a pinch of red chili flakes and a dash or two of sea salt, continue to simmer until the onion gains a little color, add two cups of chicken stock and chaya, bring to a boil, boil for one minute, reduce heat and simmer for twenty minutes.

The cooked chaya was really good. Very similar to spinach, but more flavorful. Give it a try.

(Photo from wikipedia.com because I forgot to take a photo before we ate it.)

Heartburn

Having a very light kitchen remodel done—doors for the lower cabinets and a screen door on the back porch. Hired a reputable architect—the one who designed our home. So far... everything that can go wrong, has gone wrong. A very bad experience. They are still trying to make it right. Some items have been redone for the third time (at the architect's request) like the screen door that was built six inches too short. More to come, I'm sure.

Recipe

Hummus en Fuego

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 5 (you decide) chilies de Arbol (dried) roughly chopped

2 cups cooked garbanzo beans, drained
1 clove garlic (2 if you’re a garlic person)
juice of 1 limón – possibly more
hot water
salt
chopped cilantro

Heat olive oil in a saucepan—hot, but not until smoking or burning. Remove pan from heat and place the chilies into the saucepan and give it a stir. Allow to cool. Refrigerate in a covered container. This is best when made ahead a couple of days. Strain before using.

Now the hummus... Place all but 1/2 cup of the garbanzos, 1 or 2 tablespoons of strained chili oil, garlic, and limón juice in a molcajete. Work it until smooth. Drizzle now and then with water until hummus is very smooth. Taste and add more oil, salt or limón until you love it.

Place hummus in a serving bowl and stir in the remaining whole garbanzo beans. Top with cilantro.

Really good on pan árabe with an assortment of olives, carrots, radishes.

Spider

This guy was waiting for me this morning in the hand towel in the kitchen. It fell out of the towel and into the sink when I picked it up. About the size of a US fifty cent piece. I can't identify it - any help?

You get used to the creepy-crawlies here - ants, scorpions, beetles, centipedes, millipedes, termites, mosquitoes... I have a hard time with the spiders!

Breakfast

Decided to do something a little different for breakfast this morning. Usually we have oatmeal and fresh fruit at home, but on the way to the market, we stopped by Hotel Casa San Angel at Montejo No. 1 X 49 in Centro to eat. We had never tried it before, but had read some good reviews online by local residents. The cafe Americano was strong and good. Our waiter brought out toasted croissants with butter and jelly while our breakfast was being prepared. Our breakfast was delicious. They have many items to choose from on the menu. The service was unusually good. Everything came together just right. We'll definitely return and give lunch a try. BTW: The restaurant's name is Tala—desde 1970.

Pitaya

We're eating this thing! For our friends and family NOB (north of the border), this is the Pitaya — commonly known as Dragon fruit. This drop-dead-gorgeous number grows on a cactus. It's white inside with small black seeds. Some love it and some hate it.

List

Just the start of a list of things different for me in Merida. There’s much more.

• Eat a later lunch.
• Stay up later.
• Do errands before 9am and after 6pm.
• Shower multiple times a day.
• If I see something I like in a store, I’ll probably buy it—probably won’t be there next time.
• Catch myself thinking in Espanol.
• Walk with the same attention to my surroundings as if I’m driving a car.
• Never use an oven.
• Don’t watch TV.
• Don't own a TV.
  
• Value my “stuff” more.
• Wear fewer clothes around the house.
• Wear jeans outside the house in 100 degree weather.
• Wash my feet when I enter the house.
• See and hear birds I’ve never seen before.
• Know how to play sidewalk chicken.
• Thank Mexicans for letting me enjoy their country.
• Operate on a cash basis.
• Have forgotten the whole wall-to-wall carpet nightmare.
• 70 degrees is chilly.
• No home-owner’s insurance.
• Greetings for everyone.
• Eat way more servings of fruit than health experts recommend.
• Comfortable with getting it done “mañana.”
• More to come, mañana...